Tesla Founders Blog


EV Juice
August 29, 2008, 9:55 am
Filed under: Energy, General

How much does it really cost to charge up an EV?

Updated 2 September 2008

Every answer I have seen to this question has been squishy, and looking back, my own answers have been squishy too. The reason is that you don’t buy electricity the way you buy gasoline: gas costs $3.75 (or whatever) per gallon, period. You can see how far a tank of gas takes you, do a little division, and you can say that your car burns, say, 15 cents of gasoline per mile. Simple.

Electric rates are different – very different: there is no crisp answer. I don’t know a lot about most electric rate structures in the world, but I dug into PG&E, the utility company that serves much of Northern California, and this blog describes how their rate structures work.

For you PG&E customers, I have created a spreadsheet that will calculate your electricity cost per mile in gory detail, taking into account everything I will describe in this blog. You can download my spreadsheet here. Pull out your PG&E bill and read along. (I updated this spreadsheet on September 2 to include the Utility Users Tax and to include the Minimum Charge requirement.)

Six factors effect what you will pay per kilowatt-hour (kWh) for electricity:

1. PG&E assigns you a “baseline” amount of energy (in kWh) based on two factors. The first factor is in which of their 10 territories you happen to live, indicated by a letter (P through Z, except U) in your “Rate Schedule” at the top of your electric bill. (I happen to live in territory Q, which has the lowest baseline amount of any territory. Bummer.)

2. The second component of determining your baseline is whether or not your house has permanently-installed electric heat as its primary heat source – is it a so-called “all-electric house.” This is indicated by a B or an H as the last character in your “Rate Schedule” at the top of your electric bill. (H means you have an all-electric house, B means you don’t.) If you heat with electricity, then you get a higher baseline quantity – amazingly rewarding you for choosing this inefficient way to heat your house. (I should be careful – PG&E argues that a modern heat pump is more efficient than some sort of gas heater.)

Your baseline amount defines 5 tiers of rates you pay – Tier 1 is all the electricity you consume up to your baseline amount for the billing period (month). Tier 2 is any more, up to 130% of the baseline amount. Tier 3 is any more, up to 200% of your baseline amount. Tier 4 is any more, up to 300% of your baseline amount, and Tier 5 is all the rest. What you pay per kWh goes up with each tier, dramatically so with the higher tiers. Your usage in each tier should be broken out in your electric bill.

3. If you have solar panels, then you should be (and probably are) signed up for Net Energy Metering (NEM), because your electric meter will spin backwards sometimes, and forward other times. With NEM, PG&E carries an account for you, and bills you at the end of each “true-up period” (usually one year) for any net amount you owe. However, if they wind up owing you at the end of the true-up period, forget about it. They won’t pay you, but instead simply clear out your account. No matter how much electricity you generate, you will still pay a small bill each month, paying for various taxes and perhaps a meter charge. And PG&E will never write you a check. Here is an annotated PG&E NEM bill.

4. The next factor is which rate schedule you have for your house. The first few characters of your “Rate Schedule” line on your bill will tell you what you have.

The default residential rate schedule is E1. With E1, electricity costs you the same thing every hour of the day, every day of the week, and every season of the year. The only variation is based on how much you use – how much is baseline usage versus the more expensive, higher tiers.

You can sign up for a voluntary Time of Use (TOU) schedule, where where you pay more for electricity during peak hours, but less during off-peak hours. There are several TOU schedules, most of which have different peak times for weekends and weekdays, and also different peak times for summer and winter. Many have three categories: peak, partial-peak, and off-peak. If you signed up for TOU metering today, you would probably get rate schedule E6.

If you got solar panels before 2008, you are probably using rate schedule E7, which has a lower meter charge than other TOU programs, and has peak hours that align well with solar production. If you installed solar panels a long time ago, you might even have rate schedule W, which is the same as E7 (I think), but has no meter charge. (With W, you paid for your meter upfront.)

If you installed solar panels this year (or will get them soon), you will use TOU rate schedule E6, which isn’t quite as good as E7 – the meter charge is higher, and the peaks are less-well aligned to solar production. (They are better aligned with PG&E’s actual peaks, so it makes sense.)

If and when you get your electric car, you are required to sign up for rate schedule E9. This TOU rate schedule has somewhat worse peak and partial-peak hours than E6. I think this schedule most closely reflects PG&E’s actual energy costs, compared to the other TOU schedules. PG&E has further discussion about the E9 rate here.

With E9, you have two choices: rate schedule E9A uses one TOU meter for your whole house (including your EV), and E9B is for if you to have a separate TOU meter for your EV, with some other meter (and rate schedule) for the rest of your house, including any solar panels. My analysis indicates that it is almost never a good idea to go with E9B; in most cases, it will cost you more. This is especially so if you have solar with NEM, because excess electricity generated by your solar cannot be credited to your E9 usage.

5. PG&E talks about installing “SmartMeters.” These meters do all kinds of fancy things. But relevant here, they allow remote reading of your usage, and automatically deal with TOU schedules. If and when you get a SmartMeter, your monthly meter charge will be eliminated. You can check here to see when a SmartMeter is coming to your neighborhood.

6. If you have one of the TOU rate schedules (e.g. E6, E7, E9), then your per-kWh cost depends on what hours of the day you use electricity, and (with solar panels) what hours of the day you generate electricity. To increase complexity, the peak, partial-peak, and off-peak periods change on the weekends, and they change between winter and summer.

Whew! There really is no simple answer. As I said at the beginning, I have created a tool for you that will allow you to figure out what electricity for an EV will cost you per mile, what impact solar panels will have (and what size is optimal for you), and to explore the impact of your usage, the various PG&E rate schedules, etc. You can download this Excel spreadsheet here.

I am sure you will find opportunities for me to improve this tool, and I will try to keep the most recent version available on this blog.

PG&E has not yet installed my E9A meter. I expect to learn more details when this meter is installed and when I get my first E9A bill!

Enterprising Excel blackbelts who buy electricity from utility companies other than PG&E are encouraged to write similar tools for their neighbors. Give me a URL or email me the spreadsheet and I will link to it on this blog.

In a nutshell… Depending on a lot of things, a Tesla Roadster will cost something between 2 cents a mile and 6 cents a mile, without solar. (For me, its’ about 3.6 cents per mile.) You can size a solar array to offset your EV completely (except for the inevitable taxes and meter charges), or you can size it just to shave off your higher-tier usage. If you already have solar, driving an EV will probably cost you less per mile with your existing solar array than if you didn’t have solar. If you lived in Territory P, for example, and you had a SmartMeter, then your EV juice would cost only 1.8 cents per mile, without any solar! (Assuming relatively low domestic usage still.)

Note that PG&E provides a couple online analysis tools that are primarily for businesses, and seem pretty crude.

Play around with my spreadsheet – learn, have fun, talk yourself into buying both an EV and installing solar panels :-) . Report bugs.


91 Comments so far
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An even more obscure wrinkle – when I got my solar it was just before the newer extended daylight savings. The TOU meter came pre-programmed with firmware that uses the old daylight savings calendar. PG&E sent me a letter saying they would NOT reprogram the meter (too much hassle and no upside for them), so I am stuck with two months of the year with less optimal rate structure. The problem is the rest of our lives are scheduled around the real clock time so we get home sooner and start using appliances before the schedule has gone into “off peak” hours.

By the way, you might find this document interesting and relevant.

Comment by TEG

Dear Martin and the gang,
could you pls. explain the following question? Interestingly, I’ve not found answer on the corporate website, this blog or the forum so far. Specifically, your “home charger unit” or rather wall mounted “GFCI&cable security box” for Tesla Roadster is rated ABOVE the SAE J1772 recommened max 14.4kW, (Level-II charging at home). I’m wondering did you have to scale it down a bit for the European market, where this SAEJ1772 has become IEC norm, i.e. much stronger norm/rule among the EU member states as opposed to just recomendation in the U.S. Or are you pushing this “non-compliance” here too? Thanks

PS Anybody knows if Toyota Prius plugin fleet currently under testing in France adheres to these “old” charging rules from 1990s or not in terms of public charging max kW output under Level-II?

Martin sez:

I can’t speak for Tesla Motors, of course. But the EVSE is designed with an internal (installer-set) switch that limits its maximum charging rate. If the EVSE were to be used anyplace where 70 amperes is a problem, it can be set to work at a lower-current rate.

Also, From my own participation in the SAE 1772 committee, I know that 1772 is currently (so to speak) being rewritten to allow higher charge rates. No doubt the new 1772 design will not be exactly the same as Tesla’s existing system, but it will likely be close. If Tesla were classy, they would upgrade existing cars to the new standard when it is published.

Comment by gonzoEV jr.

With Nanosolar now having funding of almost half a billion bucks I look forward to the day of cheap Nanosolar for home use & car charging-maybe it will hit just in time for the plug-in hybrid takeoff around 2011. Also-what about charging thru the air (induction charging is it called ?). What would be the loss in power over, say 2′ from garage wall to car vs. plugging in the car ? Or, maybe better- a wall mounted plug-in arm that senses where the car plug is within a range of a couple of feet and automatically hooks up to the car. Then you just drive car into the garage every night and forget about it re. charging. The induction deal would be really neat, but I guess elect. loss wouldn’t make it good- and there is no way to minimize this power loss (?).

Martin sez:
Aside from efficiency issues, I always worry about stray electromagnetic fields for inductive charging, especially over a large distance. Might stop a pacemaker or two!

Comment by TJ

TJ & Martin,

strong electric fields can also affect living tissue as well as pacemakers. There are many kinds of positively and negatively charged ions dissolved in biological fluids such as blood, ECF, and cytoplasm. The strong electric field that would be required for an inductive charging system for a Roadster would cause these dissolved ions to migrate through living tissue in the direction of the oppositely charged electrode. This would seriously impair the functioning of cells, especially nerve cells, and may even cause tissue necrosis. The bottom line is that the strong electric fields necessary for inductive charging a large battery pack, like the Roadster’s, would be a serious safety hazard (as well as being less efficient). Copper cable is a much better option.

One idea that I had that is somewhat related is an idea for fast charging EV’s with LiFePO4 batteries. Instead of using copper cable, which is limited by diameter, weight, insulation, etc., how about using fat naked copper electrodes that plug directly into the battery from a receptacle underneath the car. It would require a drive-in recharge station, with the charging mechanism installed under the floor of the station. The car drives into position, a sliding door in the station floor opens, the thick solid copper electrodes move upwards and plug directly into the battery pack on the underside of the car. The electrodes should be thick enough to carry the high current necessary for rapid charging. At the same time, hose connectors could hook-up to the cooling system to keep the batteries cool during the charging process.

What do you think Martin? Are there other considerations besides the cross-sectional area of the electrodes/charge-carrier when it comes to rapid charging?

BTW, I do enjoy reading about the cost of charging EVs issue in CA, but in my neck of the woods (Ontario, Canada) we’re still working on the government to allow us to drive EVs on public highways (legally… :) ). Believe it or not, I have never actually seen a legal, highway capable, BEV “in the flesh”, even though I went to the autoshow in Toronto this past spring. That probably seems strange to you guys in Calfornia, eh?

All the best,

Chris H.

Comment by Chris Harvey

Martin:

Geeeeezus! PG&E sure has a quagmire of territories, tiers, rates, and schedules! Interpreting your monthly bill must be a challenging as reading IRS tax forms! Whatever the bottom line, however, with well over 1,000 miles behind you in your Roadster, have you been able to calculate the average number of miles per kW you’re getting? Does the charger even keep track of how many kW go into the Roadster over time?

Martin sez:

The charger does not have a power meter, but the car calculates kWh/mi for each trip (with the trip meter) that I take. With my driving (kind of zippy, never with the hardtop on, hills and winding roads) the car seems to consume about 260-270 Wh/mi. I don’t actually know the charging efficiency, but it is around 86% – so at the plug, I think I am getting about 300 Wh/mi.

Someone suggested I buy a used power meter and set it up as a sub-meter for the car – I think I will do this so I won’t have to guess anymore.

Comment by Yanquetino

That’s a lot of math! The simple answer is “less than gas”. I get 22mpg, so at $4.00 a gallon, that’s 18 cents a mile. An EV should cost me 1/3 to 1/9 as much to run. Even if I got 40mpg, an EV would still be half as much or less in energy cost.

But as you pointed out back in your post Solar Synergy, “It’s about freedom, not about the money”. Until the ultimate affordable EV family sedan finds it’s way to market, people who buy EVs won’t be driving them because they cost less to operate. That’s just a perk.

Martin sez:

I completely agree. But I still wanted to know what it costs. My first (naive) comments while at Tesla were between 1.5 cents and 2 cents per mile, if I recall correctly. These were just based on the lowest tier, off-peak rate for the E9 schedule. I didn’t take into account the impact of domestic consumption, usage that pushes you into higher tiers, or all the taxes and meter charges – these make a big difference.

I also wanted to know if Tesla’s current claim of 3 cents per mile is realistic. For my house, it turns out to be pretty close. But… on the one hand, I don’t use much electricity in the house, so keep to the lower tiers. On the other hand, I also live in an area with pretty high electric rates. I bet there are Tesla customers that will get lower than cents per mile, even without solar.

I am hoping some of you will write similar calculators for other electric companies!

Comment by Mark Tomlinson

Well, since inductive charging is out (except for diehard republicans of Rove/Cheney quality) then maybe mount a short rail on the garage wall at the same height as the car charging port- the charging plug-in arm moves along the rail and telescopes out with the car charge port electronically telling it where it’s at-or, mount arm on a ball joint that can swing within a short range to port-or maybe something similar on floor. You could also just put a stop in the floor-like conc. parking lot wheel stops-to make sure car is lined up with wall or floor charging arm. A car that fuels itself-poifect !. Need those cheap fuel cells for solar storage so can sun power when get home at night. First cheap Nanosolar, then cheap fuel cell. One day, no doubt, solar cells on car as option that are relatively cheap & powerful enough to charge car in parking lot at work-get the price of those MIT 41% efficient cells down, that should do it area-wise.

Martin sez:

Cool as this automation might be, it really is easy to plug in my car every day. It takes about 5 seconds to plug in, 5 seconds to unplug. My cumulative time spent plugging/unplugging my the charger into my car is way lower than what I spent gassing up my GV.

(GV is a “gasoline vehicle”, an old type of car that ran on “gasoline” , a liquid fuel that you had to get from a “filling station” often miles from your home. In the days of GVs, you had to plan your week around your trips to a “filling station.” There, you had to hold a nozzle for several minutes that poured this smelly, flammable liquid into a tank on your car. The whole time while you were holding this nozzle, you were staring at a big sticker on the face of the “gas pump” that informed you that the vapors you were breathing were known to cause cancer.)

Comment by TJ

Martin, my HS classmate D. Albin (U. of Arizona Materials Science PhD, he is a UIUC BS in Ceramic Eng) is Project Leader of PV/Photovoltaic research (Performance & Reliability R&D) at NREL/National Renewable Energy Lab I spoke with him several yrs ago, he tells me he’s one of the worlds experts in solar cell fabrication. Back in our day @UIUC (25 yrs ago), 1 of the UIUC EE profs (Don Holshouser..did you ever take his course in electronics?) was a solar cell specialist. The efficiency was not so good, like 20% (guessing). I’m sure this figure is higher now, & eventually PV will find its way to an EV (not just part of the power-grid, say a house roof).

I will call him over the next few days, & get an update from him about the latest in PV research. I’m sure he’ll be interested in your pioneering efforts in EV (co-founder of TM & concept/execution car Roadster). It’s personal contacts like this, which can get something going “top-down”. What’s the latest on your search for your next entrepeneurial project? I think my idea of a 3rd party R&D Inst for Alternative Energy Applications has sound conceptual motivations. It obviously would want to have a PV Research division. If xxx didn’t blow it, all of the above could help his SolarX company.

Comment by chimpanzee

Great article! We will just have to be happy with mpKwh and figure out our own costs.

Chris H. There are no laws in Canada preventing BEVs. This mis-conception has been promoted by ZENN in their (successful) quest to pressure the governments (federal and provincial) into allowing their low speed NEV on public roads. This has nothing to do with electric power and everything to do with safety. These NEVs are not certified for highway use, no airbags, roll cages or crash tests. ZENN’s argument is that because the speed is limited, they are not require to be safe.

Comment by Roy

Chris,

As I always understood, the fast charging obstacle was two fold: that the ESS could take a charge that quickly, and in the infrastructure (running something larger than 240v).

The copper electrode idea is sort of cool, but I don’t see that it solves much of a problem. 4/0 should be able to handle it.

Martin sez:

It’s pretty easy to make an ESS that charges in one hour, and a half-hour charge time is not too difficult either: most lithium ion “energy cells” can handle a “1-C” charge rate, and lots can take “1/2-C”.

But…for the Roadster to charge in 1/2 hour, it’s charging circuit would need to handle about 7 times the current as the present design – 7 X 70 amperes, or about 500 amperes! (With an input voltage higher than 240 volts, this current would decrease proportionally.)

According to NEC Table 310.16, each current-carrying conductor (and probably the safety ground) would need to be at least 2000 kcmil. (1 kcmil = 0.5067 mm² .) Crunching the math, each conductor would be about 1.4 inches in diameter without insulation. By the time you bundle three of these in a cable and insulate it, you are talking about a very heavy cable that is maybe 4 inches in diameter! Even with some sort of automatic/robotic mechanism to plug the charger in, the on-board charging system would be huge and heavy… And nobody’s house has a spare 500 amperes for charging a car!

I chose to limit the Tesla charging rate to 70 amperes because this was the maximum current for a particular AWG wire that was somehow manageable by most people, and it is a reasonable to expect many houses to have this much available current in their existing service. (Remember my Tesla blog about this.)

Comment by Gabe

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Hi Roy,

I have often looked for a definitive answer as to whether highway capable EVs are legal in Ontario, Canada. The Ministry of Transportation of Ontario (MTO) doesn’t really address the issue on their website. The closest thing I could find on the MTO site was this page dealing with “New and Alternative Vehicles”:

http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/dandv/vehicle/emerging/

Please note that even Segways are not legal for street use in Ontario except by “individuals aged 14 and older with a disability that impairs their mobility, Canada Post employees delivering mail door-to-door, and police officers”. (”Gob” would be out of luck if he lived here… :) )

There are several EV conversions that I’m aware of in Ontario, but I suspect that they were first registered as ICE vehicles and then “quietly” converted to EVs.

If you are aware of a Government of Ontario website that explicitly states that highway capable EVs are legal to drive on public highways in Ontario, I would appreciate it very much if you would share it with me, as this is a question that I have not yet received a satisfactory answer to.

All the best,

Chris H.

Martin sez:

From the MTO website that you reference:

To operate a motor vehicle on public roads in Ontario, these vehicles must meet:
* Provincial equipment safety standards for motor vehicles, such as standards regulating lighting, braking, seat belts, etc.
* Federal standards for motor vehicles used on public roads.

This is pretty much the same as in the USA – the Tesla Roadster had to meet all the DOT requirements, plus any state requirements.

I believe that the Tesla would technically not be legal in Canada for at least two reasons: First, the Tesla’s bumpers were designed and tested to meet the USA 2.5 mph standard, while Canada still has a 5 mph requirement. (Note that this is not a safety issue, but rather is a repair-cost issue driven by insurance companies. The standard basically specifies how much monetary damage can occur for an impact below 2.5 or 5 mph.)

The second reason I know of is Canada’s requirement for bilingual labeling – all the various labels all over the Tesla would need to be repeated in French to meet Canadian standards.

There may be other Canada-specific requirements, but as I remember, the Canadian requirements were pretty similar to the USA requirements.

If the Tesla met all the Provincial and Federal standards, it seems pretty clear that it would be legal on Canadian roads.

Comment by Chris Harvey

# Martin said:
## My first (naive) comments while at Tesla were between 1.5 cents and 2 cents per mile, if I recall correctly.

Although the Tesla web site said 1 cent per mile in the early days, your earliest blog on the subject had said this:

My electric rate at home is 13 cents per kilowatt hour. At this rate, the Tesla Roadster costs about 2.6 cents per mile to drive. Compare this to my Mazda 3, which goes 33 mpg, for a fuel cost of about 8.6 cents per mile at today’s gas prices. (The story gets better if I sign up for the 5 cents per kilowatt hour incentive EV rate from PG&E.)

Note, Tesla’s web site still says:
“Electrical Cost to Charge the Batteries
With your electrical company’s incentive pricing factored in, it will cost you roughly 1 cent per mile to drive the Tesla Roadster.**

** Since most car owners recharge at night, this calculation uses off-peak charging rates with a time-of-use meter. To calculate your exact cost-per-mile, contact your local electricity provider.”
So, they may still be offering up overly optimistic values.

Comment by TEG

Martin – It’s too bad you don’t own an EV company, as you’ve just written the best story line for a commercialI’ve seen yet. EV vs GV, an historical/hysterical definition. By the way, they finished installing my solar panels last week and I’m waiting for the local power company to okay it and power it up. Thanks for the solar panel article some months.

Martin sez:

:-) I was thinking of writing a whole blog along those lines, someday.

Comment by Roger Richardson

Chris,

Everything I have read from the government has refered to motor powered vehicles and has not singled out any type such as “gas, diesel, natural gas, bio-diesel, E85…”. My point is that Electric vehicles are not disbarred.

A couple of years ago I sent an email to ZENN and asked them for a copy of the document that disbarred electric vehicles in Ontario. They sent me a copy of the LSV 500 document, which described requirements to meet this standard and included the fact that the vehicle was not capable of exceeding 40 kph. The word “electric” or any other type of propulsion was not used anywhere.

Since this is off-topic maybe you would like my email, click on my name and scroll to the bottom.
I live in Hamilton.

Comment by Roy

Here’s a way to automatic charge an EV: wheelstop placed on the garage floor with built-in swing-up charging arm-car hits wheelstop, arm swings up and plugs into front bottom of car . Power is right there at back garage wall too, as per typ. garage.

Comment by TJ

In the Wired “Better Place” article they say:
“…into a spot and the spot connects itself. In 2008, we put the cable in the unit, in 2010 we use an arm, in 2012, there’s a smart arm that connects automatically…”

Comment by TEG

On a silly note about charging, you could hook a motor up to a drive wheel (via the lug nuts and a special armature) and simply turn the wheel with the reg. braking on. It would take forever and be damned inefficient, but it’d work.

On a different note, Martin, was there ever any talk at Tesla before you left (or are you aware about any since) of being able to pull charge back off the ESS and run the house power for a bit in the case of an emergency?

Martin sez:

Yes, but the regulatory issues were absolutely prohibitive.

Comment by Gabe

Martin said:

I think I am getting about 300 Wh/mi.

—————————–

Okay! Sounds pretty reasonable if the charging efficiency is 86%: about 3.25 miles per kW.

Let’s see… that means that, if I had a Tesla in my area, and drove it as aggressively –er, expertly– as you do, it would cost me about… 2.62 pennies per mile on average. Not bad at all, if you ask me! Although an i-MiEV (at 6 miles per kW) would cost about half that, it doesn’t have anywhere near the power of a Roadster.

Any way you add it up, the costs are MUCH lower than with a GV –and not just in terms of dollars, but also CO2 emissions, energy independence, and national security.

Martin sez:

Hey, are you going to write a calculator for your utility company? Come on you guys, help me out here :-)

Comment by Yanquetino

Martin and Roy,

thanks for the feedback. Roy, interesting website, I had thought about doing a similar site myself. It sounds like you may be waiting to see if the ZENN city car is going to materialize in the form that Ian Clifford has been promising (as am I).

I didn’t realize that you are in Hamilton. That’s cool. I’m in K-W. I have your e-mail, so I’ll write to you tomorrow.

All the best,

Chris H.

Comment by Chris Harvey

[...] Martin Blogs Recharging Costs EV Juice Tesla Founders Blog [...]

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Matin wrote:
The whole time while you were holding this nozzle, you were staring at a big sticker on the face of the “gas pump” that informed you that the vapors you were breathing were known to cause cancer.)

and that talking on your cell phone could cause an explosion.

Comment by vfx

Martin sez:

Hey, are you going to write a calculator for your utility company? Come on you guys, help me out here :)

———————————————-

Aw’right, then… since you’ve thrown down the gauntlet.

The electricity rates from Rocky Mountain Power (PacifiCorp) here in Utah are not nearly as complicated as what you have to deal with in California. Apparently the whole state is one “territory.” They do have special rates for those who qualify due to “economic hardship,” but… if one can afford an EV… :)

Other than that, there are really only two rate schedules: the basic plan, and a time-of-use plan. If customers opt for the latter, it only kicks in from May through September by punishing on-peak usage (1-8 PM weekdays) and rewarding off-peak usage (all other hours). In both schedules, the price per kilowatt goes up in three tiers: up to 400 kWh, 600 kWh, and 1000+ kWh.

Here is a spreadsheet that I have compiled with those data:

Utah_EV_cost-per-mile.xls

I hope Excel users can open it okay, because I exported it from my preferred spreadsheet program.

You’ll see in the spreadsheet than one merely needs to enter basic figures for watts-per-mile and charging efficiency, or alternatively the miles-per-kWh. The sheet will then calculate the results for that particular EV, in tables for both the basic plan and the time-of-use plan. It also reports the lowest and highest rates in those tables.

At the bottom I have also put a “quick-and-dirty” calculation. If one enters the average rate per kilowatt according to one’s statements, it will show the average price per mile. For example, I put in my average rate for the last two years ($.084600) and found that it would have cost me $.026069 per mile to drive a Roadster.

As a comparison, I tried entering into my copy the variables for the Mitsubishi i-MiEV. It reportedly gets 6.229656 miles-per-kWh. Consequently, the lowest rate in the tables turns out to be $.009852 per mile (less than a penny!) and the highest $.023202 per mile. When I use my quick-and-dirty calculation, its average cost would have been $.013580 per mile.

Martin sez:

Cool! One more electric company down.

By the way, it’s the quick & dirty average cost per kWh that got me into trouble in the first place. All of my EV usage will be on top of my domestic “baseline” usage, so its incremental cost will be at my highest rates with a tiered system like PG&E’s.

Comment by Yanquetino

Calculator smackulator.

In North Texas (actually all of Texas except for the Austin area) we are deregulated. The electricity delivery is a public utility company but the energy itself it bought and traded wholesale. This has upsides and downsides:

Capitalism takes over and companies are forced to compete for business. This leads to a wide variety of different contracts: month-to-month variables vs. 6- or 12-month long static contract prices (locking-in your rate).

For people on a variable plan, when the price goes up, it really goes up. I was paying 12.9 last summer and am paying 18.9 this summer. North Texas electricity is generated in large part by NG, so our price is tied pretty directly to fluctuations in the commodity pricing.

If you lock in your rate (like I wish I would have done), it’s normally a little higher up front, but then you don’t have to worry about fluctuations (at least until your contract is up). However, if your company was foolish and didn’t keep enough cash on hand when prices went up (and they had to swallow the difference) then your company goes under and you have to find a new provider (if you don’t find a new provider, the delivery utility will provide it for you at around $.55 per kwh).

So there’s no possible calculator for Texas, it would depend on what deal you can strike with your provider. We also don’t have tiers (unless you’re a commercial user, in which case it’s normally cheaper). Some providers will do on/off peak billing, some won’t.

Thankfully the state legislature is going to allow the delivery utility to add on a $3 surcharge in order to pay for installing smart meters on every house and business. While I’m generally against paying more, in this case it will make on/off peak billing a lot better and give the grid more flexibility.

Texas also has maxed out it’s wind power usage capacity – there’s no way to get more wind power from West Texas where it’s made to the cities that would use it. We’re supposed to be investing around 3b in transmission lines over the next ten years to allow more wind capacity.

The way it’s looking now, my average, living in Dallas, for the year (Jan to Dec) will be 16.7 cents per kwh. As I said before, I’m paying 18.9 now (its always higher in the summer when every turns on the AC).

Meaning I’d get around 5-6 cents a mile in a Tesla – compared to nine cents a mile in my Del Sol (3.20 a gallon divided by 35 mph). That doesn’t include envirosecurity costs, of course.

A Prius getting 55 would actually cost less than a Tesla right now.

Comment by Gabe

Martin said:

All of my EV usage will be on top of my domestic “baseline” usage, so its incremental cost will be at my highest rates with a tiered system like PG&E’s.

———————————————-

Yeah, that is an important point. Simply using an “average” rate is likely going to fall short because charging an EV in most cases will raise that household average –probably into the realm of the highest tier!

I have therefore now added a “slower-and-dirty” calculation to the bottom of my spreadsheet:

Utah_EV_cost-per-mile.xls

This alternative is based upon a year’s driving, as rates go up-and-down according to seasonal demand. It also relies upon these assumptions:

* EV charging is always done off-peak (at night).
* EV charging exceeds 1000+ kWh per month (highest rate May-Sept)

I think that most folks would agree with the first assumption. As for the second, in our household we average 994 kWh per month, so I am confident that most users here in Utah would indeed exceed the top-tier 1000+ kWh to charge an EV, especially during the hottest half of the year.

One now simply needs to enter in the spreadsheet the number of miles one anticipates driving the EV per month, and it will calculate the total cost per year and per mile, for both the Basic rate plan or the Time-of-Day option.

For example, I entered 1,000 miles per month for the Roadster, and the results are:

Basic plan (Roadster)
—————–
$325.71 per year
$.027142 per mile

Time-of-Day option (Roadster)
—————–
$299.80 per year
$.024983 per mile

This shows that by opting for the Time-of-Day plan, a Roadster driver could save… $25.91 over a year’s time in Utah.

Curiously, it also shows that the Basic plan has a $.001073 $/kWh higher rate with the “slower-and-dirty” calculation than with my “quick-and-dirty” calculation. And the Time-of-Day plan has a -$.001086 $/kWh savings with the “slower-and-dirty” calculation.

For those interested, here’s how the “slower-and-dirty” numbers also added up for the i-MiEV:

Basic plan (i-MiEV)
—————–
$169.67 per year
$.014139 per mile

Time-of-Day option (i-MiEV)
—————–
$156.18 per year
$.013015 per mile

Comment by Yanquetino

Martin said:

All of my EV usage will be on top of my domestic “baseline” usage, so its incremental cost will be at my highest rates with a tiered system like PG&E’s.

So get those solar panels for your NorCal house already!

Still thinking about moving the Tesla down south?
With the Hwy 35/84 (or 35/92/280) commute I would think you keep it around here for now.

Martin sez:

Yeah, we know… I am a little concerned about shade here – too many trees. Bu I think we will put in a small solar array in the next year. My spreadsheet says 2.5 kW is probably about right.

Comment by TEG

With a good piece of land, you don’t have to put the panels on the roof of the house. You could find a clear patch somewhere and run wires back to the house. Remember Rob Wilder’s installation?

Comment by TEG

@TEG

Yeah, my own house has quite a bit of shade on the roof, but the backyard gets lots of sun. I’ve thought about building a patio/gazebo w/ panels and a line back to the house. The new build would actually make installation easier. Just waiting for my salary to go up or solar to come down.

Comment by Gabe

All this fine tuning, penny pinching talk of cents per mile to drive a Tesla-what are you guys, engineers or something ?-oh, right dang-I forgot. Grid power, schmid power- in a couple of years throw some Nanosolar on the roof and call it a day.

Comment by T.J.

@ TJ

It is sort of funny to talk about the cost-of-driving for a $100k+ car. Though hopefully the lower end models both from Tesla and others will have similar (if not better) driving costs – making the current discussion just the tiniest bit relevant.

So TJ, what’s your tipping point for throwing solar on your roof – how low does solar power have to go before you can/will make the jump? For me, I would need to recover the cost in about ten years, including financing (but I could do the labor myself). Hopefully that price point is less than a decade away.

Comment by Gabe

Here in Seattle we have 70% hydro-electricity in our grid. Our average cost is about 8 cent per kwh. There are no tiers (yet).

I have been riding a Vectrix electric scooter for about 2 months (1,600 miles so far) and have been monitoring my energy consumption and cost with a UPM energy meter.

http://www.smarthome.com/1139.html

The Vectrix battery is 3.7 kwh but it requires a bit over 4 kwh during charing process.

At 8 cents per kwh it costs about 32 to 35 cents, so it is less than 1 cent per mile to ride.

62 mph max speed
40 to 50 miles in range per charge
3-4 hours to recharge from a standard outlet.
0 to 50 mph in about 6 seconds

I have just put down my deposit for the Tesla. So based on my experience, I have some preliminary numbers.

53 kwh Tesla battery would cost about $4.25 to charge from empty. There is typically about 10% to 15% extra required to run the fan for cooling and there is some loss during transfer.

So about $5 to recharge from empty in the Seattle region.

Then there is the discharge rate to consider. Am I driving hard and getting poor milage? Or and I in extendend range mode and getting great milage? I will just use the 200 mile per charge estimate.

$5.00 divided by 200 miles = 2.5 cents per mile to drive the Tesla with 8 cents per kwh electricity.

So if you guys are paying 12 cents per kwh or a really high tier 3 rate, then I estimate your cost per mile is above 4 cents per mile.

Just my opinion based on 2 months of tracking with my Vectrix electric scooter.

Comment by James

A slight note on PV.
As far as I’ve understood, nanoSolar panels are going to be massively competitive against triple junction (unisolar mostly) but I have some skepticism on whatever they’ll be enough for home use.

Using already commercially available triple junction films it takes 100% of my “first choice” roofing surface to install about 4.5kWp for about 23k€ (including massive roofing insulation).
The same amount in mono-cristalline will probably go at about 26-29k€ (still have to check with the new terrible EURO->USD change damnit!), possibly including heated water as well – but – using less than half of the available surface.

Unless improved panels start shipping NOW at least 20% more surface-efficient while being at least 20% less expensive, I’ll hardly believe they’re going to find their way easily for residential applications.
And there are good economical reasons for which the breakthuru won’t provide any (or at least minimal) benefit to the user.

If you think at getting PV you should be getting it NOW. There’s no point in waiting the breakthuru, by the time it comes to market you will have already wasted all your savings and probably more.

Comment by MaxDZ8

Gabe-my power use is very low-except for like 3 1/2 months of summer (to power a/c-I have gas heat). I looked into getting solar via my power company but they don’t allow you to sell extra power to them ( brilliant !-unlike Germany-they’re smarter than us, you know), you can only cancel out your power bill-except for $8 per month “service charge”-so actually you can never totally cancel out the bill. I wanted to install a small solar “stater kit” which would be good for later car power, but local installation company on the power company’s list of “approved installers” said that unless you have a certain min. size system “the inverters or whatever” won’t work. After factoring in all of this I said to heck with it- when I get a plug-in hybrid or EV or Aptera (or ?) in like 2 years, I figured maybe by then Nanosolar would be available for home use. Their website originally said that with large mass production the cost might be 1/10 of silicon cells-even though they are less efficient-like what, half as efficient (?). My ideal payback time for solar would be one year-if Nanosolar gets price down “as advertised” and I get a small system, which is all I need, maybe one day this would be possible. No doubt some day down the line, wherever, it will be possible. Also, the local power company only has a certain number of slots per year for people to install solar. Bottom line was that it made no economic sense-I’d just be doing the environment a favor-but I don’t see the state govt./power company trying too hard on this-unlike in other countries. Not buying surplus power from home solar installers is absurd-same for the “yearly quota ” on installations. If I could have sold my excess solar to the power company I’d have installed a system.

Comment by TJ

Ground source heat pumps will save a typical UK house about £240 ($425) a year over natural gas according to this UK government sponsored website http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/generate_your_own_energy/types_of_renewables/ground_source_heat_pumps.

“The efficiency of a ground source heat pump system is measured by the coefficient of performance (CoP). This is the ratio of units of heat output for each unit of electricity used to drive the compressor and pump for the ground loop. Average CoP over the year, known as seasonal efficiency, is around 3-4 although some systems may produce a greater rate of efficiency. This means that for every unit of electricity used to pump the heat, 3-4 units of heat are produced, making it an efficient way of heating a building.”

“A typical 8 – 12kW system costs £6,000 – £12,000 (not including the price of distribution system). This can vary with property, system size and location. Vertical ground loop systems are significantly more expensive to install than horizontal ground loops, due to the higher cost of drilling a borehole. When installed in an electrically heated home a ground source heat pump could save as much as £880 a year on heating bills and almost 7 tonnes of carbon dioxide a year. Savings will vary depending on what fuel is being replaced.”

In my humble opinion ground source heat pumps in combination with solar thermal panels (hot water in the summer months) are the most sustainable form of household heating / cooling / hot water generation available today. They are also CO2 neutral if a green electricity tariff is used and or photovoltaic solar panels are installed at the household.

Some green proponents advocate wood as been a sustainable CO2 neutral heating source but as transport is going electric thus hugely lowering particulate emissions, imagine the effects of millions of households switching from natural gas to wood.

http://burningissues.org/car-www/index.html

“Burning solid fuel yields particulate pollution – solid particles smaller than a red blood cell which have been implicated in 30,000 deaths in the US and 2.1 million deaths world wide per year. . “Particulate pollution is the most important contaminant in our air. …we know that when particle levels go up, people die1. ” Indeed, wood smoke is chemically active in the body 40 times longer than tobacco2.

1. Joel Schwartz, Ph.D., Harvard School of Public Health, E Magazine, Sept./Oct. 2002

2. Wm. A Pryor, Persistent Free Radicals in Woodsmoke: An ESR Spin Trapping Study, Free Radical Biology and Medicine 1989, 7(1): 17-21″

Martin sez:

Yes, heat pumps – particularly ground-source heat pumps – seem like the most efficient way to heat and cool – in addition to building an efficient structure in the first place.

I also agree that large-scale replacement of natural gas with wood heat would be an environmental disaster. We might be able to engineer wood burning stoves that emit acceptable levels of particulates, but there is also the whole farming and harvesting of wood to consider.

Comment by Mark Tebbutt

2 cents per mile, 3 cents per mile, 5 cents per mile: these numbers are all dishonest. First off, the cost of the car is $100K so even at 10 cents per mile, it would take you a million miles before you paid as much in electricity as you paid for the car itself.

But more importantly, the pack is rated for, what, 125,000 miles? And it costs $30,000? That means the replacement cost of the battery pack is 25 cents per mile, completely dwarfing the cost of electricity.

It’s the same with my Prius. I’ve got 160,000 miles on it, and it’s consumed around 4,000 gallons of gasoline in that time, at an average of around $3/gal (when I bought the Prius gas was under a dollar!) So, $12,000 for the gas. But the car was $20K, and I’ve probably paid another $10K for regular maintenance and replacement parts etc etc.

For all practical purposes, I think of the electricity for my EVs as “free”. The cars are so efficient that inevitably the electricity cost is dwarfed by everything else.

Martin sez:

“Dishonest” is a pretty harsh word to use – I was quite specific in my blog that I was referring to the cost of electricity to charge an EV only.

Yes of course anyone who buys a $100K sportscar is not doing so to save money! But I simply wanted clarity on how much the electricity costs.

Comment by Jorg Brown

Great tool if accurate but you have a major error. On the Analysis page cell L7 should not have that final *100 in the denominator. The formula should just be G6/E7. It shows that it would would cost me $.23/mi to drive 6000 mi. for a total cost of only $13.69 a year. The correct figure is $.0023/mi. If I drive 4000 mi a year (more likely) I actually save money with the EV over current electric usage, assuming the spreadsheet is right.

Martin sez:

I think the formula for that cell is correct, because I am giving the results in cents per mile, not dollars per mile.

Comment by Russ A

I really think Gore needs to do a sequel movie: “A Convenient Truth”. No one is really getting the word out there ” to the halibutin’ sloth-like masses” re. the huge green tech. & energy potential- I keep up with some of it, but it’s bigger than I even know, no doubt at all. This society in some ways went off the rails a long time ago (but don’t get me started on when that started). I think that those 35,000 lobbyists in D.C.-and who’s behind them-, and lack of detailed media reporting (as usual-and no doubt influenced by the former) has a lot to do with it-and that’s an understatement. Neither Obama or McCain are fully with it, but McCain with his “drill everywhere and build a lot of nuke plants too” is really out of it. He said that he is a big fan of Teddy Roosevelt-well I got news for him: “Teddy would not approve his message”. The ideal president (the the guy in 1960 would do) would just get on the horn with all the engineers and scientists working in the green field and just stand back and get out of there way-while fully “publicizing” what is going on and all the potential. Simple as that-in a “non-derailed society”, that is. By chance I’m listening to an example of it right now-some joker on PBS republican convention coverage is at the podium and just said “drill baby now”- to which the audience of smiling fools chanted ” drill baby now”-even holding up placards reading “drill now” .Guess all these halibutheads conveniently forgot all about the truth of global warming as soon as the “powers that be” changed the agenda (in the usual 2 week or so cycle) by jacking up oil prices in the past few months (a rather suspicious event that certainly could have been pre-engineered by “someone”-and no doubt about it either). Man oh man-I wish europe started about 60 miles away so I could more easily get away from a society composed of about half “Green Day Style American Idiots” -or if not, they effectively might as well be.

Comment by TJ

Hmmm- I guess I could live in Seattle and get away to Canada instead of europe-that would probably do it-maybe Harvey knows something about this. Wow-by the way, Mitt Romney at the republican convention just made a comment “let’s keep Al Gore’s jet on the ground ” to cheers-wonderful. Main what a pack of idiots. How much private jet mileage has this rich fool racked up in his lifetime-making worthless trips, as well. Now he talks about lowering taxes-for who, Mr. American Idiot-you and your rich buddies !?-Yeah, wonderful. Of course not all “republicans” are halibutheads but man, that party sure is full of some major ones-similar the ones that swim in the reefs of the Phoenix islands, where no commercial fishing takes place and halibutheads growth to huge gargantuan size-not seen anywhere else on the planet.

Comment by TJ

Hmmm- Mike Huckabee is now on the convention podium talking the usual talk of “less govt. under the republicans”-only problem iz: govt. spending and the deficit has gone to record levels in Bush’s 8 years. He’s yapping about $4 gas and less govt. programs-even though a govt. program (state and federal combo) to put a plug-in hybrid in everyone’s garage -and solar on the garage roof- starting in 2010 would kick the halibut out of $4 gas in short order. The typical “republican” M.O.: say you want to get govt. out of everything at all times (except war, war profiteering, and military spending, of course)- forget the reality of what you actually do-just say that ultimately stupid (when taken to it’s logical conclusion) party line at all times. Everything at all costs for so-called “personal freedom”. Forget the larger society and planet and the “common good”. Well Thomas Jefferson, Teddy Roosevelt, FDR, Eisenhower (even) and JFK would “beg to dream and differ” from the(se) hollow lies”. When they say “don’t raise taxes” they mean don’t raise taxes on the most wealthy people-when both Bill Gates and Warren Buffet beg to dream and differ from this hollow lie. Meanwhile, back at the ranch, we finally raised the lousy minimum wage for the first time in what, 25 years. Man oh man-”the republican philosophy”: “don’t look past your own nose, protect what you’ve got at all cost, live the good life with the other vested interest good old boys (and girls) and to heck with almost everyone else-and do all you can, including lying, cheating ,distorting the truth, yada, yada, yada-to KEEP it that way (till antarctica unfreezes). At least the party has Gov. Arnie of Calif-how the heck did they let that happen !? Like I said-this society went off the rails in some respects decades ago.

Comment by TJ

BBC News article: Germany next week will commission world’s first coal plant that captures all c02-a pilot plant, costing $70 million euros, to test the technology. Article said europe will make more such plants. Meanwhile, this country’s energy policy consists of drilling for more oil-anywhere and everywhere- when stampeded off a cliff by a relatively small increase in the price of oil. Off the wall/off the rails.

Martin sez:

Though certainly no expert in the field, I remain skeptical about CO2 capture. The plans I read about were to liquefy the gas (with no insignificant amount of energy), then pump the liquid into spent wells deep in the ground. Once in the ground, the liquid will surely vaporize, creating plenty of pressure. How long will this gas remain underground? If the answer is significantly different than “forever”, then this is no solution – it is simply creating a bigger problem sometime in the future when the ground burps up megatons of “sequestered” CO2…

Comment by TJ

Martin-yeah, you got that right. But, if politically you can’t stamp out coal-which you in fact could with a fully informed public (try to pull that off in derailed America), then a “delayed solution” tacked onto existing plants is at least better than nothing. If carbon capture could be scaled up to be somewhat cheap, then slap it on those thousands of coal plants around the world “as a stop-gap”- but that’s a big “if”. At least the europeans are looking into it. Of course solar and geothermal cover the whole problem-no doubt about it, at potentially a fraction of the cost. McCain talks of “clean coal” and clean nuclear . But the guy doesn’t know (or he’s lying if he does) that for the cost of getting just some of that -going forward, as in “new plants” you could power the whole country via solar & geothermal. Watched Palin V.P. candidate speech at convention-she did a good job of appealing to “small town America” (very clever, part of the McCain ploy in picking her -no doubt about that) . Only trouble iz: “small town Americans” are ultimately the fools who point blank gave us 8 years of Bush/Cheney- wonderful. I have absolutely no faith in or sympathy for that ultimately non-progressive, “not fully informed and don’t wanna be” -and so, basically, pathetic- voting block. I also have no faith in anyone who cleverly, and with planned disinformation, caters bigtime to that block-period. She also pulled the usual republican ploy of linking “democrats” to the elite and to the Hollywood Crowd and the usual ploy of scaring people with “the arab/foreign threat”. Man -the same cynical, divisive, cleverly calculated Rove-style M.O. This is makes “the diehard republican crowd” such a wonderful bunch of connivers. Of course they also think Gore is a bigtime elite guy. Never mind the inconvenient truth that he is and has been right on just about everything under the sun. Of course McCain is, in some respects, the “maverick” they talk about-trouble iz not nearly enough. As I say: cynical ploys du jour at it again-very clever, very reasonable-sounding but ultimately political tricks as usual. The bottom line iz: NOW “the republicans” are saying “we’ve got to go green”-of course not nearly are they saying this enough. NOW they are agreeing that Gore had/has a point. NOW they are changing the agenda to make it look like their “party of the fat cats” is now with it environmentally and now with it re. “change” across the board. Well I for one remember history, and there’s no excuse for the last 8 years and all the republicans who were with Bush lock stock and barrel on the environment and everything else-and for McCain basically “going along with Bush to get along-and get ahead in the future”- as in trying to get the payoff now by being elected president. Baloney- Gov. Arnie might have a leg to stand on in this regard, McCain doesn’t . Voting for a lie of a war and wanting to stay with it, after all the people the lie killed and maimed, “till we achieve victory” – what a halibuthead. Almost $5000 per second down the drain in a money- making war benefiting the” usual gang of idiots”- a gang which McCain, by backing this halibut, is a member of. All the aforementioned people killed/maimed had/have one life, that’s ONE-and their life,to them should be (as in: no kidding) worth far more than that of Bush, Cheney, Rove, McCain or anyone else – such as the head weasels of war profiteers Haliburton and Kellogg, Brown and Root- who wants to put them into the middle of a total lie of a war. There are over 4000 people who “used to be in our military” who would no doubt have loved to have been around to watch all the people have such great fun laughing it up at the republican convention-catch my drift ?

Comment by TJ

T.J. and Martin,

I have to agree that I think this whole notion of “Clean Coal” and “Carbon Capture & Sequestration” is a cynical ploy designed to misdirect the masses, to pacify the people into believing that everything is OK, and that we can continue with business as usual.

Capturing gaseous CO2 requires the use of a metal oxide, such as sodium hydroxide (a strong alkali) or calcium oxide, which becomes saturated with CO2 very quickly, so you need a continuous supply of fresh NaOH or CaO. Then the CO2 must be extracted and liquefied, which, as Martin noted, requires a great deal of energy. The net result is that “Clean Coal” generated electricity is very expensive, and therefore not economically viable. Renewable energy is much more competitive, in terms of cost.

The only safe, long-term, economically viable way to capture and store CO2 is by the use of an extremely complex, highly evolved, von Neumann machine. Fortunately we are surrounded by them, they cost nothing, they work for free, and they are solar powered. They’re called “trees”, and all we have to do is leave them alone and let them get on with the job…

All the best,

Chris H.

Comment by Chris Harvey

Ah-but trees are very inefficient and we have chopped down a lot of them over the centuries. Ireland used to be a total forest. On further reflection re. “republican style politics”: here we go again-pandering to “small town middle America” so that they “vote against their interests”: as in for continued tax breaks for the rich- at all costs-that’s “job one”. See, if the rich don’t keep getting their Bush/Cheney style tax cuts lordy, lordy it’ll wreck the economy. IF that were really true, what a pathetic commentary on America THAT would be ! I don’t see McCain coming from small town middle America, with white picket fences on his seven homes, via his rich wife. What have Bush/Cheney done for progress in America and “jobs for middle America” ? Gore, defeated by middle America, would have cleaned Bush’s clock in this regard. But like I said, here we go again. All you have to do is this: pitch patriotism, religion, right to life, foreign threat, europeans as “not like us and elitist”,” liberal media” & Hollywood crowd & celebrities equals “democrats”. Just pitch: America First, drill for oil, people vs. owls and treehuggers- “can’t have both”- conservatives vs. “tax and spend liberals” even though Bush & Republicans have spent the country into the frickin’ ground. You know the drill-and certain factions of the republican party (who are extremely elitist and extremely “non-middle America” to the nth degree, but of course) will laugh again at middle America , behind their backs, all the way from the polling booths if this M.O. works again. The rich vested interests will again have used underinfomed “middle America” to screw the country up-not as bad as Bush, of course-nothing could be that bad. Of course knowing where Obama really comes from leaves us with a choice of pre-selected candidates no matter how you look at it. Whatever happened to the candidates who didn’t go for ploys and spoke to the whole country- ESPECIALLY in terms of vision and progress: Teddy Roosevelt, FDR, JFK-and even Reagan in a lot more meager way ? The first three would have an absolute field day re. the potential of green tech.

Comment by TJ

On further, further reflection: Martin needs to hit the road with Al Gore and a new and improved slide show/multi-media event and hit dumbed down America over the head till finally a light bulb goes on. Sounds like just what we need about now. The politicos and hacks have the stage in this country instead of the people that REALLY represent progress . Nothing new here-except it seems to have gotten worse over the years-and it’s a sad, sad commentary. At least I’ve done/am doing my small part to fight the riptide.

Comment by TJ

There is a very good news article over at the BBC comparing the 3 main CCS technologies under development.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/sci/tech/7584151.stm

I think CCS should at least be investigated as a stop gap technology before cheap solar and electricity storage i.e. ultra capacitors / batteries / EV’s become available over the next 10 to 15 years. Then who needs base load power stations if the storage capacity is large enough?

Comment by Mark Tebbutt

In case anyone was wondering why McCain V.P. pick did such a good “speaking job” at the convention last night here it is: she majored in communications and journalism ,with a minor in political science, at college in Idaho and was a T.V. sportscaster for awhile. However according to website info. she believes creationism should be taught in schools along with evolution, and on wikipedia site she supposedly said that she didn’t believe global warming was man-made. If so, get that hook from stage left an’ get her outta here-after 8 years of Bush/Cheney my tolerance for this kind of halibut is at absolute zero (like around -460 degrees K). I don’t care if she’s from “small town America” (which if anything may be a “bad sign” seeing as how these are ultimately the jokers who brought us Bush not once, but twice)and that she’s a “pit bull one time moose shooting soccer mom” with 5 kids. Cheney was the ultimate pit bull, and he liked to shoot animals too-and what the world needs now is more people having large families to further overpopulate the planet (not). We need a president who fills his entire administration with people who really know something (in reference to this site that would be people like Gore, Gov. Arnie, Martin and Anatoly-whatever happened to him ?).That would be some kind of FDR/JFK welcome flashback. We need smart, totally progressive and to the point with no “societal factors b.s. varnish pull the wool over someone’s eyes overlay”- (spin doctor generated): none x 2. Now wouldn’t THAT be a breath of fresh air- x 10!

Comment by T.J.

I’m going to jump in here with a solar comment and avoid the political stuff. Reading along here I keep seeing people talking about putting panels on their roofs. Believe me, for any number of reasons the roof is the location of last resort for the installation of panels, even in places where snow and ice buildup isn’t a problem.

The biggest reason is that, regardless of where you are located you want to be able to adjust the angle of the panels to the sun. PV operates at optimum output at a 90 degree angle of incidence to the sun. The sun moves 47 degrees seasonally in the sky, everywhere on the planet, and being able to adjust the panels to ensure the best angle will net you a hell of a lot more power than just fixing them in one position on the roof.

My panels (www.wagonmaker.com) on the house we built in Colorado, were split between the roof and the ground because we started out as neophytes and bought into the “panels on the roof” line everyone was putting out. Panels on the ground are easy to move, easy to maintain and easy to clean.

Then there’s the reality that panels last longer than many roofing materials, which require replacement, and having to R&R panels is expensive. Plus, the necessary penetrations of the roof to mount them and the DC GFCI requirement adds complexity you don’t need and the danger of roof leaks.

Your fire department will think better of you if you ground mount them too since they aren’t too keen on dragging hoses around on a roof with panels on it, should the worst thing occur and you have a house fire.

These days, given the ability to install PV arrays at higher voltages and use state of the art charge controllers to adjust the charge voltage, I say avoid the roof. You’ll be glad you did

Comment by Tom Elliot

Per his speech tonight, McCain is like Gov. Arnie of Calif.-a duck out of water-seeming about as much of a typ. “democrat” as a “republican”-too bad about most of the rest of his party. Seems like that party under Reagan was at least more like him. Unfortunately his ads, where I live- “approved by him”- are a lie, pandering variety. His V.P. choice is a direct pander to small town middle America. But some people, including my brother, don’t trust Obama & his experience level. I object in general to the party of Bush lately and all it stands for-and don’t like idea of rewarding diehard members of that said smug retrograde clique with a “republican victory”. Good news is whoever wins will be nowhere close to that disaster. This looks like it will get interesting now.

Comment by TJ

# Tom Eliot wrote:
## the roof is the location of last resort for the installation of panels,

I like having mine on the roof for the following reasons:
1> I don’t have the yard space to put them otherwise.
2> They add another layer of insulation/sun-protection for the roof, so my roof stays cooler and my house needs less cooling.
3> My roof is up higher than the yard so I don’t have the same issues with tree shadows up there.

Coincidentally/luckily I had a new roof put on right before the solar panels. The installers like it that way because they know it would be a huge hassle to remove the panels to repair the roof, so it is best to have a new roof under the new panels.

Comment by TEG

TEG, I understand, sometimes that’s the only available real estate for panels. What I’m trying to avoid is having people think that it’s the first place to consider putting them including one post up above that mentioned building a structure just to have a roof to put them on.

You’re right they do add another layer of insulation/shade but I’d highly recommend putting them up at least a few inches above the roof itself because the hotter they get the less efficient they are and since you can’t adjust them seasonally (unless you installed them that way and you still have to get on the roof) that’s a double whammy in terms of efficiency.

Leaving some airspace under them allows air to pass easily and help cool them and the roof.

Comment by Tom Elliot

Yeah, my panels are attached to a frame about 6″ above the roof so there is some airflow.

It is non adjustable, so it isn’t at optimal angle in the winter. Some panels are better than others when subjected to suboptimal angle of sunlight incidence.

By the way, adjusting the angle of the panels seasonally only helps somewhat. If you really want full output you need a full tracking system.

Comment by TEG

Thanks for update, so you say that driving EV is 5 times cheaper then gasoline one?

Martin sez:

at least for the electricity compared to gasoline. But as another commenter pointed out, right now an EV is significantly expensive than a GV, and the savings in fuel probably won’t make up for the extra vehicle expense. Butting on my oracle hat, I expect this algebra to turn around in the next decade or two.

Comment by Alex

- GV is a “gasoline vehicle”, an old type of car that ran on “gasoline” … while you were holding this nozzle, you were staring at a big sticker on the face of the “gas pump” that informed you that the vapors you were breathing were known to cause cancer. -

Martin, I know that you are not one to accept compliments easily, but this stuff is hilarious! Maybe there will be a stand-up comedy circuit for this “brand” of humor!

Comment by DrTaras

- If you installed solar panels this year (or will get them soon), you will use TOU rate schedule E6, which isn’t quite as good as E7 – the meter charge is higher -

I have been waiting for the spare cash to place solar panel at home. I know that I am getting closer. Every December the solar companies that I had made inquires to let me know that this was the last best year to do it because of varying incentives both Federal, State (CA) & Local (LA). Do you know if there will be more doom and gloom preached this December as well, or are incentives holding or getting better?

Comment by DrTaras

- Comment by DrTaras September 6, 2008 @ 5:48 am -

Your clock is off by an hour or else it does not recognize Day Light Savings time; alternatively your server is somewhere in the Pacific!

Martin sez:

You’ve figured out my Pacific hide-away :-)

Comment by DrTaras

[...] RoadsterBy describing the cost to charge an electric vehicle as “squishy,” Martin Eberhard begins a post on his Tesla Founders Blog on the right foot. Seriously. That’s because it’s a very difficult [...]

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[...] describing the cost to charge an electric vehicle as “squishy,” Martin Eberhard begins a post on his Tesla Founders Blog on the right foot. Seriously. That’s because it’s a very [...]

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[...] describing the cost to charge an electric vehicle as “squishy,” Martin Eberhard begins a post on his Tesla Founders Blog on the right foot. Seriously. That’s because it’s a very [...]

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[...] describing the cost to charge an electric vehicle as “squishy,” Martin Eberhard begins a post on his Tesla Founders Blog on the right foot. Seriously. That’s because it’s a very [...]

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TEG, full tracking systems are fine in some areas but not all. They became popular because it was the “California” thing to do. Sorry but a lot of the initial attitudes towards PV installation came out of California and were then shoehorned into other parts of the country where the same assumptions don’t work.

In Colorado where I was, a tracker might have improved my summer power production but would have done little for my winter production since I was adjusting the vertical angle on my panels enough to handle that aspect anyway. Plus trackers introduce a much higher maintenance headache and have the unfortunate tendency to fail in exactly the wrong position, plus their added cost is often not enough to justify the complexity when for the same money another panel or two can be added to produce the same amount of extra power.

I considered them for the summer benefit but finally rejected them as too expensive and complex to be worth it.

Comment by Tom Elliot

T.J.,

why would you describe trees as “inefficient” when they cost nothing, require zero maintenance, and can produce unlimited copies of themselves (at an exponential rate), all for free? Do you know any man-made machines that fit that description? They operate for decades, even centuries, removing CO2 from the atmosphere and sequestering it in a form that can remain stable for millennia. In addition, they produce food & oxygen for us parasitic heterotrophs, distill thousands of litres of water per day (per tree), produce building materials for our homes & vehicles (even the Aptera contains some wood).

They may be a relatively slow way of extracting CO2 from the air, but collectively they remove megatons of carbon from the atmosphere annually. If we had to perform this function through chemical or physical means, without trees or other plants, it’s quite conceivable that it would cost us trillions of dollars annually.

They may be slow, but I would not describe them as inefficient.

All the best,

Chris H.

Comment by Chris Harvey

Conclusion to “In Search of the Flux Capacitor”:

http://www.evworld.com/article.cfm?storyid=1517

Sorry if someone else already posted this.

All the best,

Chris H.

Comment by Chris Harvey

I know this thread is pretty US oriented but maybe a Europe anecdote might be of interest. Here in Italy electricity is pretty expensive, and sounds like our metering system is at least as complex as PG&E – don’t ask me to make a spreadsheet, please – although once you start using over about 4,000kWh/yr, it tends to average out at around €0.22/kWh: yes, that’s over 30¢ US. (You can get quite a bit lower if your household consumes less than 2500kWh/yr, but you wouldn’t be charging your Tesla very often I guess :-)

However, the feed-in tariff for PV solar installations is great – I’ve been producing now for 15 months and it is clear that I have a <10yr payback (probably 9yrs), and the production subsidy contract (€0.42/kWh feed-in + net metering) is in fact 20yrs. This means that, not only is the electricity for an EV “free” (over 10yrs), but is in fact *a way to make money* with the capital investment. I know this sounds quite surreal, but as a domestic user (in Italy, but Germany, Spain and France are similar), if I can increase my electricity usage – and I have the capital to invest in the PV – then at least the PV is an investment that pays itself back, with interest.

Therefore, for really “squishy” pricing, arguably in certain situations in Italy, Martin’s driving style and Tesla could cost around 10¢ US a mile, or… could make you money. So long as you have the capital for the PV installation, even a less efficient driving style could be welcome… you’d find more outlet for a rock solid investment.

BTW my panels are on the 30deg pitch roof – the loss due to lower efficiency winter production (pretty minimal, winter is only 10% of annual production) is way offset by the decreased likelihood of theft – a growing problem.

Martin sez:

Of course gasoline also costs lots more in Italy than it does in the USA – even as we reach $4 per gallon. But I absolutely agree – solar fixes the equation no matter what the math.

Comment by Simon Kay

Simon,

Good point about theft. It isn’t as big a problem here in the US but it happens and likely will become a bigger problem as time goes on. But like with most things high-tech that get stolen it is unlikely the thieves will be able to get much use of the things unless they have the balance of system components necessary to make it work and I suspect we’ll see registration numbers on panels if theft becomes a huge issue to help in tracking stolen panels. That may put a damper on selling of “hot” (i.e. stolen) panels though nothing ever really stops that sort of thing completely.

Comment by Tom Elliot

I’m gonna be unusually critical for a moment, so bear with me:

I agree with the earlier poster that the electricity is basically “free” when compared to the cost of battery replacements.

Until somebody makes an EV battery that lasts the full life of the vehicle, studying the number of pennies it costs to charge is a purely academic exercise.

Martin sez:

That is a perfectly fair assesment, Ryan, and that is why I chose li ion for the Tesla: it would last the longest of any technology that was actually available. Predictions are that the pack should last at least 125,000 miles, so we are pretty close. (When I was a kid, most cars were expected to last only about 100,000 miles.) I think and hope that recent interest in EVs will push battery makers to optimize for longer life- a mere 50% increase would make a pack that lasts the life of the car.

One more thing to keep in mind: at 125,000 miles, the Roadster pack will not be dead- it will just have reduced performance. Most cars I have owned have reduced performance at that mileage.

Comment by Ryan Lamansky / Kardax

Martin is such a youngster. When I was a kid it was common for cars to be junked at 50,000 miles and common to get a new car every couple of years. That was in the middle of auto-mania in this country so if electric vehicles can reasonably double that right out of the chute they will be considerably more advanced than ICE vehicles were in the fifties and sixties.

I’d say that’s one hell of a technological leap and the kind of level of advance of a technology traditional automakers lost the will to make years ago.

Comment by Tom Elliot

Martin,
When you say “reduced performance” at 125,000 does that mean reduced maximum range, but still getting the same speed?

Or does that mean that speed and range are likely to be showing age at 125,000 miles?

If all other parts are properly maintained and in good condition, I understand that the battery should still have about 70% of it’s original capacity at 100,000 miles.

I don’t know about other owners, but with $109,000+ invested, I plan on keeping mine in PERFECT condition for many years.

Martin sez:

As batteries age (pretty much any batteries), they lose capacity and their series resistance goes up. How much depends on their lifetime average temperature, how much time they spent at full charge or full discharge, number of cycles (actually number of kWh cycled through the battery), calendar time since they were manufactured, amount of high-current discharge, and some other factors.

The result to the car of reduced capacity and increased series resistance of the battery will be reduced driving range, reduced acceleration (power), and probably some reduction in top speed.

To maximize their life, keep your batteries (and car) cool (the car’s cooling system will help you), don’t do too much high-power driving, avoid charging the battery all the way (use the “normal” charge setting), and avoid running the battery all the way down.

But you should know that even doing everything perfectly, the batteries will age – the whole calendar life thing…

Comment by James

I have been riding a Vectrix electric motorcycle for about two months. So I now have a few electric bills to determine the extra cost of having an EV in the house. It is about the same amount of electricity that I saved by switching every lightbulb in the house to a CFL.

My electric bill declined about 15% when I switched to CFLs.
My electric bill increased about 15% when I bought and EV.

Of course this is only an approximate estimate. But it makes a valid point. You can migrate to an EV and basicly cover your fuel expense by switching to CFLs at the same time.

Net impact on the electric grid would be neutral.

Most cars will draw more electricity than my 4 kwh Vectrix battery. But the Hymotion Prius battery makes a plug-in Prius an EV for 20 to 30 miles. That battery is only a 5 kwh lithium battery, so the cost will be about the same as my pure EV scooter.

Martin sez:

So tell us what you think of your Vectrix! If you get enthusiastic about it, maybe you would like to write a guest blog for me to post here.

Comment by James

Sure, I will send you a blog review on the Vectrix. Where do I send it? I don’t see your email address on this blog.
If you want to contact me privately, I think you have my email from the registration.

Comment by james

I quit driving my car (in city) in late 2006, because of high gas prices. I bought a Schwinn Super Sport (flat bar road bike, 25 lbs) in early 2007 for $269, & have logged almost 1000 miles. At 10 mpg avg (my gas guzzling 4×4 van), that comes to $400 savings in gas. I ride the bike practically every day for errands, & find myself sweating (previously, this was a rarity..cars promote a sedentary lifestyle). I’ve lost 25 lbs (exercise works!).

The ultimate carbon-free lifestyle is a bicycle! There is a nice public transportation system (bus & electric train to downtown LA from Pasadena) that is very bike friendly. I can ride to a bus stop, throw the bike on the front rack (or take the bike RIGHT ON the electric train). I did this for a recent trip to West LA (UCLA)

I just bought a 2007 Schwinn Peloton road bike (all carbon frame, 18.25 lbs w/o pedals)for $990. I’m really gravitating towards a bike lifestyle. I’m not sure I’ll go back to GV/Gas Vehicle, if the gas prices come back down (currently my car is registered as “non-operational”). Even an EV can’t approach the healthy lifestyle of bicycling (good aerobic exercise, per day). I have a special trailer (Burley) for grocery getting, I can haul 5 watermelons (& more) in that thing! Over the weekend, I set a personal best by hauling 2×4, 2×3, siding (7 ft long) & other stuff from a Home Depot 7 miles away. As I was doing this, I was fantasizing how I would do this if I had a Tesla Roadster. Just put up a rack, with mounting points on front & rear bumper. “A crime” (in terms of aesthetics), but it would work!

Comment by chimpanzee

Chimp,

Once you’ve got a topless car, your storage is limited to what you can manage to fit around. I’ve carried home a dozen 10′ 2×4 in my little two seater: just stuck them out the back window (the Honda Del Sol has a flat power rear window running perpendicular to the car, directly behind the cab).

Martin sez:

Just be sure to tie your load down carefully if you do this! I had a 4X4 slide into my hand when I swerved to avoid a deer in my Audi TT. This led to my first and only experience with an airbag. Not at all pretty.

Comment by Gabe

Silicon Valley Power (Santa Clara, CA)
First 300kWh: 7.527 cents/kWh
Excess over 300 kWh: 8.653 cents/kWh
Much simpler than PG&E

I pay 1.5 cents/kWH more for their 100% renewable energy program.

Now if only I could afford a Tesla.

Comment by Jose G

+1 for the tiedowns!

Comment by Gabe

Waterloo North Hydro (Waterloo, ON, Canada)

http://www.wnhydro.com/residential/residentialrates.shtml

1. ELECTRICITY (1) (2)
First 1,000 kWh/month $0.050 per kWh
Additional kWh/month $0.059 per kWh
2. DELIVERY
Distribution Service Charge $15.05 per month
Distribution Usage Charge $0.0134 per kWh
Line Transformation Connection (2) $0.0018 per kWh
Network Service (2) $0.0045 per kWh
3. REGULATORY CHARGES
Admin. Fee – Standard Supply Service $0.25 per month
Wholesale Market Charge (2) $0.0062 per kWh
4. DEBT RETIREMENT CHARGE $0.007 per kWh

So, we end up paying 9.82 cents per kWh for the first 1000 kWhs, which means that fully charging the Roadster from empty would cost about $6 (conservatively). Assuming a real world range of 200 miles per charge, this would mean a cost of approximately 3 cents per mile, which of course would vary depending on driving style.

As previously noted (by others), the issue of the replacement cost of the battery (still an “unknown”) could add significantly to this “cost/mile” number.

As the probability of me being able to buy a Tesla Roadster here in Ontario in the next few years is low, :( , and that the numbers are likely to change before this becomes a possibility, this is purely an academic exercise.

All the best,

Chris H.

Comment by Chris Harvey

I can vouch for James’ enthusiasm for his Vectrix. He and I have met a couple of times, each on our Vectrix’s. I got mine a year ago when I grew impatient waiting for my Tesla to arrive. James and I end up talking for hours about EV’s and the energy issues. He’s been busy chatting up some state politicians, too. Trying to get laws improved for EV’s and Hybrids.

There’s a group of Tesla owners here in Seattle that have gotten together, once to check out the color selection kit I recently got. The excitement level is steadily building among us. There’s at least one Signature 100 Roadster in this area, so we’re anticipating seeing a Roadster on the roads around here not too long from now.

Electric rates for me is very simple. $10 “facilities fee”, then $0.082/KWh. I’m paying an extra $0.01 or so on every KWh for “green”, renewable electricity. I’m a member of an Electric Cooperative, so these rates may be a bit different than Puget Sound customers in the Seattle area.

Martin, have you got your mobile charging adapter for your Roadster yet? What’s the reason for the delay in getting that device? I’d never want to leave home without one! The way you’ve mentioned it, I sense that you’d also prefer it in your trunk, “just in case”.

Martin sez:

No mobile charger yet – I don’t know what the hold up is. You are right – I would like ot in my trunk for trips where I am pushing the range of the car! I would probably not haul it around for normal commute days though.

Comment by DaveD

Martin thanks for your answer regarding EVSE and possible upgrade of charging standards even on international level. Also, I can’t wrap my mind around the idea, you have mentioned just a couple of posts earlier on this thread, that you have to maintain lifetime average temperature for the batteries. How this could be accomplished without the car attached to the grid all the time? I gather you have to assume some “theoretical” frequency of usage/driving/recharging cycles when the car is connected to the grid, so batteries get some cooling right? But this might not work for some weekenders, just assume hot climate, not very well vented garage, Tesla as 3rd car in family, and driving/discharging the car only bi-weekendly, therefore exposed to high average temps for long time. In my view in similar scenario the life expectancy of the batteries might suffer greatly..

Martin sez:

The battery has an internal liquid cooling system that keeps all the cells in the battery at the same temperature (ensuring consistent aging throughout the pack). If the pack gets too warm, the car fires up the A/C compressor and cools the liquid down via a heat exchanger. In practice, this happens quite seldomly, as the battery has a large heat mass and does not change temperature quickly with air temperature changes. Obviously, this use of the A/C discharges the car a little bit, and the car won’t do it of the battery is too low.

In practice, why wouldn’t you leave the car grid-connected when not in use for a long time? The car has a special “storage” mode for the charger, where it maintains temperature and also state of charge optimized for battery life.

Comment by gonzoEV jr.

Martin, do you have an ETA for the drive train upgrade for your roadster? It will be great to hear your impressions between the two.

Martin sez:

No word yet on an upgrade schedule.

Comment by Pete

I am interested in Drivetrain 1.5, I haven’t heard anything about the Death Valley testing in Aug. Can anyone give me an update? TM announced that Borg Warner was chosen as manufacturer. Doesn’t this mean that Drivetrain 1.5 (Borg Warner) hasn’t gone thru Durability/Reliability testing? How can TM upgrade Roadsters, with any faith that Drivetrain 1.5 will hold up? The shockload in a 2-speed was bypassed, which translates to a higher revving motor (creating heat, thus requiring water cooling) in a 1-speed. Doesn’t this mean, that stress/shock has been “transferred” & there still could be durability/reliability issues?

Breaking News:
The development partner for Xtrac (offroad program) scored a 1st in Class over the weekend (300 mile race), 3rd overall vehicle!! INCREDIBLE. They fought through breakage last year, & successfully developed a winning package. They are looking forward to the upcoming Baja 1000 in Nov, to take home the coveted season points championship.

[ 300 mile Primm race was same location as the DARPA Grand Challenge '05 race, where S. Brin & L. Page of Google were in attendance, along with Steve Wozniak. Stanford won in a Red Bull sponsored VW Touareg, CMU was 2nd, Caltech DNF'd. The 2 govt. contractors who did the LIVE Iridium vehicle-tracking included YYY (800 million $$ company), whose Vice-President & Director of Research is Dr. xxx..a UIUC/EE/Artificial Intelligence PhD '94..same AoS/Area of Study as Martin & me, we're 10 yrs before '83 & '84. I did a successful project with them back in '06 with a racing friend of mine ]

That’s 1st, 3rd (podium), 1st for this year’s 3 races..pretty IMPRESSIVE! The severe tranny shockloads in an offroad car are similar to that of an EV (instantaneous torque curve of an AC induction motor).

The “Proof of Concept” for a Xtrac 2-speed is pretty firmly established, so a DoE/Dept of Energy proposal for a Interdisciplinary Cooperative/Collaborative R&D Inst for Alternative Energy, has a VERY strong chance of getting funded. They like funding concrete things, with concrete validity tests. 1st target client will be TM, for a 2-speed Xtrac transmission. Or, any other EV manufacturer who wants a 2-speed.

Any feedback on the Concept of this R&D Inst would be appreciated, in preparation for a written proposal.

Comment by chimpanzee

Hoping Martin or others know the answer to the
following: if one’s house is already on the
PGE E7 rate, does getting the Tesla delivered
automatically mean that the house needs to go
onto one of the E9 rates, or can the whole house +
charging station stay on the E7 rate?

If it’s the first, then it seems as if there
might be circumstances under which a second electrical system on the E9B rate might make
sense, at least for one particular house…

Martin sez:

According to the rules, you are required to switch to E9 when you get an EV charger installed. However, there is no monitoring or enforcement mechanism – PG&E finds out only when you tell them…

Did you run the numbers? I had that particular combination (E7 plus E9B) in the 1.0 version of my spreadsheet, but I removed it when I wrote version 2.0 because for every combination of domestic use, solar size, and EV consumption, E9B + E7 was a clearly bad deal. This is partly because of the way the minimum charges, meter charges, and taxes stack up against you.

But it is also a bad deal if your solar annually generates more energy than your house uses annually – PG&E will keep the surplus (without paying you) and will not apply it to your E9B usage – you must always pay the full amount of your E9B meter usage regardless of how much surplus your E7 meter shows.

Comment by Brent

Hey Martin-

Great post, and truly awesome spreadsheet! Our electricity rates here in PA aren’t half as complex as yours, but after running the numbers I estimate that I would end up paying 2.6-2.9 cents/mi on average, without solar or anything. So, Tesla’s claim of 3 cents/mi is definitely possible, but I think it depends in large part on where you are.

Also, mildly off-topic: the Roadster can obviously take 240V, but if someone were to set up a charging station at a commercial area (e.g., supermarket, mall, etc.) with three-phase service, would the Roadster also be able to take 208V or 277V? Were the electronics designed with other voltages in mind?

Thanks,
-Harry

Martin sez:

I can’t give you a definitive answer, but I am pretty sure (95%) that 208VAC single phase would be no problem. I am less sure about 277VAC – you would have to ask Tesla.

Comment by Harry

Specs I’ve seen for the Telsa High Power Connector give the input voltage range as 208-240V. The specs also specifically mention that any if a 3-phase service is used, any 2 phases can be connected to it.

Comment by DaveD

Is it possible to use some of the information from the first go at electric cars? (see documentary, “Who Killed the Electric Car?”) Why re-invent the wheel. Also, would it be safe to say using an electric car MAY NOT be less expensive but may be more ecologically sound than our traditional gas fueled?

Martin sez:

Don’t know if you noticed, but the Tesla Roadster was actually in that movie. The Tesla Roadster is in many ways a few evolutionary steps from the EV-1 – it has a similar (though higher power) AC induction electric motor, its inverter is based on banks of ganged IGBTs ( a type of transistors), etc. But we did learn also from mistakes made in earlier EVs too. For example, the inductive charging system was a mistake. Bite that several of the people who engineered the Impact (prototype to the EV-1) worked at Tesla over the years as well – Alec Brooks and Wally Rippel for example – both of whom were in the movie you mention.

It is absolutely less expensive to charge an EV than it is to fuel a GV – though as others have pointed out, an EV is indeed more expensive, at least for now. But your point is well taken – cost is not the only reason one should consider an EV!

Comment by confused but amused

Chris- I meant that trees are inefficient vs. the amount of co2 being put out. Wikipedia article or carbon sequestration sez that trees (including urban trees) remove 12.1% of yearly U.S. co2 emissions- said that to meet Kyoto goal of 7% reduction in co2 would “require planting an area the size of Texas with trees every 30 years”. Article said that the oceans are biggest c02 removers.” Our efficiency in putting out co2″ obviously makes the planet’s systems inefficient. I was just on an Alaska cruise (”see your glaciers while they’re still around”). Mendenhall glacier outside Juneau has really shrunk-especially in like the last 2 years. At Hubbard glacier, further north, ship gets to within 1/3 mile-glacier is about 2 1/2 times taller than ship. Parts of the glacier would fall off into the sea at about 15 min. intervals (called “calving”)- some where huge chunks, a few stories high. The naturalist guide on the ship said that there was more ice in the water leading up to the glacier than he had seen on prior cruises on the ship all year long. Hope this doesn’t mean even more rapid acceleration of global warming in the last few months. The ranger at the Mendenhall glacier visitor center said that they were surprised by the increased melting rate in the last 2 years. Sailing up to the Hubbard glacier at 7:00 a.m. was like sailing into your freezer. Some of the ice is really blue-the ice that was deeper in the glacier where most of the air was squeezed out of it.

Comment by TJ

# TJ wrote:
## “trees are inefficient vs. the amount of co2 being put out”

Don’t you mean “ineffective“?

# TJ wrote:
## I was just on an Alaska cruise (”see your glaciers while they’re still around”).

Sorry to say, but “cruising” is part of the problem.

Comment by TEG

[...] is one of the first customers of the all-electric Tesla Roadster. After a few months of driving, he reported in his blog that the cost per mile of the Roadster is between 2 and 6 cents per [...]

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Rocky Mountain Power (PacifiCorp) here is Utah just sent me a notice about a new option for electric rates. Basically, by paying an extra $1.95 per month per “block” (100 kilowatts), they will provide that electricity from a renewable source i.e., wind. Ergo, by opting for 100% renewable electricity, you end up paying $0.019500 per kilowatt more, whether with the basic rate or the time-of-day option for summers.

I have subsequently added columns to my Utah EV spreadsheet to also calculate those renewable rates:

Utah_EV_cost-per-mile.xls

You will see that, besides sheets for the Roadster and i-MiEV, I have also added a sheet for a 2002 RAV4-EV. I used the EPA estimate for watts/mile. However, the quintessential source of info for said vehicle, Darell Dickie (EVNut.com), tells me that the energy efficiency from plug to asphalt would be less (76.5%) that what I entered for the Roadster (86%) –so that’s what I entered in the cell.

The bottom line is that, if one were to drive a Roadster here in Utah, it would cost $0.00600 per mile more to charge it exclusively from wind power, i.e., about $72 more per year if driving 1,000 miles per month.

According to the figures in Rocky Mountain Power’s notification, that would save the planet from over 44 tons of CO2 per year.

Martin sez:

Is there a good repository for these spreadsheets? It would be cool to have them available and under revision control suitable for an open-source project.

Comment by Yanquetino

Martin said:

Is there a good repository for these spreadsheets? It would be cool to have them available and under revision control suitable for an open-source project.

——————————–

That’s a good question. Not sure I have a good answer –yet. Maybe I can run the idea past, say, Plug-In America or the Electric Auto Association. They might welcome a collection of EV spreadsheets according to area and utility company.

I suspect, however, that we’ll have to offer them more than your two files (for PG&E and SCE) and mine (for Rocky Mountain Power), or they won’t be convinced. Let’s hope that others will also take up the challenge soon!

Comment by Yanquetino

Martin: As a follow-up, I did contact PIA about the “repository” idea. Jeanne Trombly, their new executive director, thinks that it is a great idea, and will probably be contacting us soon. I sure hope others will create spreadsheets for their states/regions/utilities soon so that we have more to offer them!

Comment by Yanquetino

Hi Martin — Been a solar generator for a while and spent a bunch of time looking at E7 vs E9 schedules, etc. Seems like one of the things we, as a group, might want to do is lobby to increase the baseline quantities for anyone who owns an electric car. Seems like at least as good of a reason as electric heating. ;-)

Have you or anyone you know attempted this yet with PG&E?

BTW — Thanks for all of your efforts at and post Tesla!

Martin sez:

I agree – why reward people for electric heating anyway? My contacts at PG&E have all left…

Comment by Paul L




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